2015 Thailand

2015 Thailland Photo Album

First Leg (12/27/14)

An auspicious start. When I check in at United the lady behind the desk told me I needed a Visa from China. I told her she was crazy. I went away without a boarding pass. I started walking toward Bradley terminal where Air china, my carrier, had a desk.it was a long walk. I decided I'd call them first. They told me the woman from United was crazy. "I know. Right?" "But how do I solve this?" She didn't have any answers for me. Emboldened with airline of billions behind me I March back to united. I go the platinum section and ask for a help desk. I ended up speaking with the global assistance officer. She checked her computer, then my docs on my phone, then back to her computer. My bags were taken, my boarding passes given, and the global assistance officer probed me for info about who gave me the incorrect information. Thinking about karma at the start of a long journey, I protected my persecutor.

The Second Leg

The flight from Honolulu to Beijing was a gentle transition into the eastern world. After my near miss at check in at LAX, I worried about omens of things to come. The five hour flight over the Pacific seemed endless; a mother of four daughters asked if I would move my seat so her family could be together. It happens a lot to me as I often travel as one. I had the window seat. The guy next to me was fat and smelled like an ashtray and a bar rag. His arms extended into my space, so I was uncomfortably pushed against the bulkhead the whole flight. It was impossible to get comfortable, let alone sleep. I couldn't get off that flight fast enough.

When I got into Honolulu there were no monitors telling travelers where gates were (I guess few fly through such a destination?) and there were no people to ask questions. After walking in one direction seeing darkened gate after darkened gate, I spotted the pilots from our flight and asked them. One said he wasn't sure, but there was an air china plane parked that way. I followed his direction. Bingo. The young girl at the gate was surprised I was on the flight. I looked around. Mostly Asian families. She asked if I wanted window or aisle (window) and printed one set of documents, but when she saw where it was , she tapped away at the computer and gave me an aisle seat. "The window seat next to you is empty," she said. I didn't grasp the favor she had done me at the time. THe plane was a Boeing 300. About 55 rows of eight seats across. My seat, 52J, was toward the back where the tail curves in. By giving me the aisle seat she blocked me from any intruders into my own space. They served a dinner right away. Chicken or beef with rice (chicken), roll and butter, fruit (pineapple, mellon, cantelope), lettuce, tuna fish and egg, and yogurt (made in new york). It wasn't bad. New plane. Every seat had a tv. Watched a Planet of the Apes that made the time go by. Slept. Read. Watched another movie that I already forgot. Slept. Watched a Chinese drama that was really strange. They fed us again. Pork noodles. Bok choi. Carrots.

Now I'm on the plane of the first leg. A woman has asked me to switch seats. No problem. Put some music in my ears and think about travel. I'm here to witness. To document. So far I've noticed a lot of shitty selfish things throughout the airport. But they weren't all Americans committing these selfish acts. Which leads me think every country has a certain percentage of assholes. Sadly a high percentage of that group also have passports and the money to travel. And I guess I'm one of them.

Between Leg: Beijing International Airport

Ir took us about 20 minutes of taxi-ing before they stopped the plane. And although many gates were empty, they dropped us off on the tarmac and we had to shuttle to the airport. Which is all good except I am in short sleeves and it's 19 degrees outside. On the bus a couple people caught my eye, pulled at their shirts and laughed. The flight from Honolulu to Beijing was a gentle transition into the eastern world. After my near miss at check in at LAX, I worried about omens of things to come. The five hour flight over the Pacific seemed endless; a mother of four daughters asked if I would move my seat so her family could be together. It happens a lot to me as I often travel as one. I had the window seat. The guy next to me was fat and smelled like an ashtray and a bar rag. His arms extended into my space, so I was uncomfortably pushed against the bulkhead the whole flight. It was impossible to get comfortable, let alone sleep. I couldn't get off that flight fast enough.

"I'm going to Thailand!" I explained, but I don't think they understood.

One old guy just shook his head.

If I am going to tour the Great Wall during my 13 hour layover coming back, I'll have to buy something warmer. Something tells me it'll be colder then. I also picture it windy at the great wall.

I'm at a Starbucks, one of the only places open near my gate, waiting for my flight, learning how to type on this new keyboard. I tapped into the wireless and exchanged a few texts with Monique and DJ. The world only gets smaller.

Bangkok

Finally found the hotel. I rounded the block enough times I was recognized by a family who looked up the hotel on their phone and figured out where it was. I was pretty nervous. The block where I thought it was located in was sketchy. Not to say the actual neighborhood where it actually is, isn't exactly a giant step up on the socioeconomic ladder.

Let me backtrack. The directions on the website....wait let me go back more.

The flight wouldn't end. I was deliriously thinking up reasons why we weren't landing. The recent lost airplane from MALAYSIA might have something to do with that. Or the 20+ hours of flying time which doesn't count the layovers. Highjackers. I was so travel punch drunk every James Bond plot ran through my mind. Too many movies and not enough sleep.

When we did land it was a mad dash to immigration. Me and a thousand other farang. But it only took a half hour to get through it. Then to claim bags. I made the decision to take the metro from the airport.

Save money. Check.

Learn the ropes. Check.

Add additional time to my journey to Bangkok. Check,check, check.

Now I'm glad I did. In transit not so much.

So I've got the website directions for the hotel from the metro. Look for a seven eleven they say. It's the "soi " next to it. I infer from its use soi is like a street or alleyway. First seven eleven I come to I and the turn into a soi. Food booths are set up. But no sign for and of a hotel. I circle like a shark dragging along my brand Christmas present new, bright green, REI carry-on.

Twice.

I get directions after a third circle. Go in the direction of the directions. Nothing. Get new directions. Back where I started. A wonderfully kind family took it upon themselves to help this desperate farang.The wife looks it up (as a grandmother is getting a blessing from a safrron draped monk) and the husband walks me down a street I went down once already but not far enough. When I say "Thank you!" He says, "Thanlk you." So I say it againm and he says it again. Finally after walking a bit further than I did the first time, I see the sign and building. I am relieved on seeing it and relieved it's pretty decent. Who new 200 meters means TWO football fields. Of course the guy behind the desk didn't find my reservation on the first go round. That would be too easy. But the hotel met my expectations.

Shower. Rest. Back on the street. Time to learn about this city.

First Night

After showering and resting up a bit, I hit the streets in my new neighborhood. There are a few skyscrapers around me. Center Point is one of them, a hotel I think. At its base is a Robinson's department store. Around that are various stalls, the variety covered in blue, plastic tarps selling everything from fish, whole chickens and ducks, to bras and underwear. The streets are narrow, the traffic uses the British method, so I am constantly looking both ways before I cross the street. The traffic is chaotic but not fast. Mopeds, tuk-tuks, busses and taxis with the occasional high end models.

There are warren of streets with more stalls that also seem to double as homes as I notice beyond into the actually building a child will be sleeping or watching tv. There is street food everywhere. A lot of whole fish grilling over coals. Ducks and chickens with their heads hanging down in penance.

There are not to many formal bars or restaurants, so as I walked down my street two western, English on the signs, places next to each other stood out. I walk a lap around my block, but realize a beer is in order. So I venture back to one, Enjoy BKK Bar and order a Tiger beer. She comes with a forty and a bowl of spicy peanuts. I consider pouring one out for my homies.

After, I walk a different route and end up in a nicer part of town. The cars are nicer, the stores are western. I find another cafe at the intersection, in front of a tall, Greek building that I overhear was featured in the Hangover movie. Another beer, more spicy peanuts. The view here is better. Locals on their way home from work. Western tourists with their families.

I am hungry now but not brave enough to try a street stall. I return to the first place. I order noodles and chicken. Its good. There's an American couple there, of course from Playa Del Rey, here on their honeymoon. The owner, Mac, from Seattle goes around the place talking to everyone, offering bits of advice. He suggests a local brewed "craft" beer from Phuket which is double the price of the others ($3/USD). There's a giant turkey in the road that lifts its hind feathers as certain people get too close. He takes out a map and circles various places to see. We talk about getting me a guide.

I say my goodbyes. In my room, I am asleep, as the cliche goes, before my head hits the pillow.

Viva Sviv

I'm in a Thai hipster joint on the river in a mall. Sad. An older woman with headphones is djing. Block and tackle hang over the bar. The place is too overdecorated in shabby chic. The drinks are western priced. Beer isn't. It's just a pit stop. It's a place to rest, libate, write.

I was out the door by 9 this morning after rising at five thinking it was six. I fell asleep by 8:30 so I wasn't tired. Got the writing started. Breakfast included in the price of the room was chicken, eggs, vegetables, and rice. Chicken fried rice I guess, but different. Tea. Orange juice. After breakfast I scoped out the boat tour and withdrew money from the ATM. Back to room to shower.

I board the boat at Central Pier, just under the metro station. The boat was packed. $1.24 for a one way ticket. The river is coffee latte brown spiced with leaves and the occasional coconut. And other things like mattresses. It's busy. Long skinny boats with huge car engines on a long pole that extends behind the boat attached to the propeller zip haphazardly around. The pole/engine/prop is how the driver accelerates and steers. They're the annoying cousin of waverunners. The tourists around me take photos, videos, selfies.

I exit at Wat Pho, famous for its reclining golden Buddha. The place is packed. Entrance fee is 100 Baht or $3.11. In the buildings with Buddhas one must take off his shoes. There is a lot of setting up happening. In preparation for NYE and day. The reclining Buddha is impressive as its made from all gold. Enough to fix the social problems of any country. So goes the woes of the world. The tour is ushaped and on the back side where there is not much to see are 108 metal bowls. A guy sells tin cups of coins and we tourists walk down the line and put a coin in each bowl. I run out with ten bowls left. Apparently the money in each bowl is for good luck for your friends and family. So if you don't get what you want in 2015, my bad. You must have been one of the last ten bowls.

I had also read that the massages at the wat are special. For $6.22 what the hell. In a large common room are beds where the masseuses work. Everyone's clothed so if you're looking for salacious details, sorry. My masseuse was a big woman. Thank god she didn't walk on my back. Not all Asians are petite- don't believe the myth. It was worth the $6.22. That's about it.

The other standout was the main building. But other than that the Wat had a Disnified air about it. I guess one can argue the same can be said for St. Peter's in Rome.

Next, I took a three dollar tuk-tuk to the Grand Palace. My driver was great. Helpful. Talkative. And willing to break annoying traffic laws like driving in the correct side of the road.

Inside the Grand Palace grounds, there were even more people there than Wat Pho. Like thousands, maybe tens of thousands more. Im really not a people person. At $15 for the entry fee I'm really not into supporting the lifestyles of monarchies either.

I jump back on a boat and head south. I get off across the river from a cool looking wat which had a huge "steeple" one can climb. I take a $.19 ferry to get to the other side. ( I understand how the Monarchs stay in business but can't do the math on the ferries). $1.56 to climb the upside down bell looking thing. The steps are steep and long like a Crossfit workout. The view is worth it. I shake my head at the people who panic about the stairs going down. What did they expect? They climbed up them! With a handrail they really weren't that bad. The pyramids in Mexico and Guatemala are much sketchier. (Note to self: connections between religions and steep, deadly stairs).

At the Central pier I am peckish. I find an English sign "stewed pork and steamed rice" $1.87. Time to jump into the street food scene. It was tasty. With a spinach looking but not green leafy vegetable/salad. They served mine with fork and spoon. Offended at first, I reach for the chopsticks. Hell, who am I kidding? Fork it is. (This took me two beers to write. At the bar. Alone. Time to go. ).

Dinner.

I fell asleep at Florida midnight, what my parents call 9 pm. I awoke at 11:45 to watch the fireworks from my room ( too lazy to dress and go outside.). They were impressive lasting around 15 minutes.

I'm currently at the airport waiting for a plane to Chiang Mai.

Chaing Mai

The above are all scenes from Chaing Mai.

The pedometer on my IPhone says I walked 16 miles today. I didn't take one tuktuk. Who knows.

Met a couple more locals. One young kid from Chiang Mia runs a kebab cart. Did a nice business even though he only charges $1.51. He had a pretty steady line. I didn't want to bother him but I wondered if the kart was his and how he came about starting it.

The other random conversation was with the kid running the desk tonight also from Chiang Mai. He asked me where I am from (my standard reply is I live in California). When he asked specifically where and I said near LA, he told me he was into Latino gangster rap. He named a couple artist whom I'd never heard of. He showed me pictures of him dressed like a cholo. Straight up gangster. Shaved head. Goatee. Buttoned up plaid shirt and chinos. He told me in order to get this job he had to grow his hair back and shave his goat. Fuck the man, I say. I wanted to turn him on to Father Greg Boyle and Homeboy Industries. But it was too complicated a conversation.

So like Ice Cube says, today was a good day. Tomorrow I'm taking a tour into the mountains to visit some hill tribes.

This was lunch. Free. The family that ran it was sweet and helpful with me. I sat with Noch, a woman who is a masseuse but had the day off. She was hungover. She bought me lunch. I didn't get a picture of her. Not sure if she'd let me. She had a nasty scar that ran from the corner of her mouth to almost her ear. She kept her hand in front of it nearly always. She was sweet but I would guess she's had a rough go. The soup was $1. Seeing how they charge $6/hour for a massage, the house probably getting most of it, I'm embarrassed that she paid for me.

Karin Tribe

Cop took me to a homestead of Daniels from his tribe, the Karin. They lived on a top of a hill, no electricity, water pumped up from the river ( not sure how), bamboo house raised up on stilts. The women were weaving while the man worked around the farm. The kids were amazing. There were twins but I couldn't keep track of which ones. We brought food but the adults had already eaten so the kids ate with Cop and me. We used sticky rice to scoop up bits of fried pork, sausage, a Chili salsa that was kind of mild, and fruit. All served on a banana leaf covered bamboo tray. The tour company has overnight tours and you can stay overnight in the adjoining hut.

The matriarch and her daughter.

This guy could count to five in English.

I like this shot. I let the kids take my phone and I think one of them took it.

Cop called him monkey boy. I watched him pick up this machete. The dad grabbed it from him soon after.

Something Different Tours

One of the most epic tours I've ever been on. Motor scooters, markets, hill tribes, elephants, waterfalls, rice paddies, water buffaloes, vistas, etc. the list goes on.

Ride (1/3/15)

The tour company called it a motorbike or motor cycle but it was really a glorified scooter with four gears. 135cc. However it had knobby tires and climbed some serious hills. 70% of the driving was on paved roads. The rest off road. Most of the dirt roads were washed out with huge ruts. Made for an interesting ride. Not to mention the bridges.

Mae Spock Village

This is where my guide Kop is from.

His parents house. Their back porch. In front they had a small store and sold gas from old fashioned glass pumps.

Cop left me with his parents to run an errand. While he was gone this guy (and others) sauntered by.

A Long Way Back

The ride back to Chiang Mai took two hours. By this time I was wiped out. The sun was setting, it was getting cool, (I only have short sleeves), and the bugs were out (keep mouth closed!).

We stopped at one more temple.

About twenty minutes later we stopped at a roadside stand. "You meet my sister," Cop says. "And my niece."

Her name is Haiku (that's what it sounded like). I tried to explain that hiaku is a Japanese poem but it was too difficult. We ate passion fruit and shot a homemade BB gun. I loved the randomness of it all. Although I was exhausted and wanted to get back to the hotel (why? for what?), I knew this was something unique. I must remember to always slow it down, live in the moment, take these gifts as they are given and just be.

Zabb E. Lee Cooking School (1/4/16)

Spent a good part of the day in a cooking class. Taught by Ann, owner, driver, teacher. She comes to pick me up, takes me to the market and explains the ingredients, and walks me through a four course meal. We are as we went. First I made Chicken cashew stir fry. Then Fresh spring rolls, next curry paste for the curry course, and finally mango sticky rice for dessert. There were 9 of us. A family of four from the States but lived in Guam, and four Germans. At the end they gave everyone a cookbook with all of the recipes.

A Plane, Bus, Plane, Bus, Ferry Kind of Day (1/5/15)

When I booked my flight to Chiang Mai my remaining trip was still nebulous. I was originally set to leave at 10 am, but this put my connecting flight from another airport an hours drive in Bangkok in jeopardy. So I took a chance and arrived at the airport at 5:30 am to attempt to get on the early flight. Of course it was booked solid so I was put in the standby list and told to change me back a half hour before takeoff. About twenty minutes before takeoff I got the go ahead.

Now I've got a free shuttle, 1.5 hours, to the other airport.

Made it to the other airport with a couple hours layover. My boarding pass looks like a receipt from McDonalds.

A double decker bus to the ferry.

A much deserved beer before I board the ferry. For some reason the ferry is an hour late. My hotel room for the night is iffy which could make things interesting.

It was all worth it.

To Sir, with Love

Spent the morning in a classroom with mostly Brits. We're learning to scuba dive. The instructor John, a Brit himself, former military is pretty laid back. Couldn't help think of the Poitier movie because some of the questions these kids asked were scary. Most are in their twenties. Working or at uni. A couple Canadians. And a few Americans. One from Germany. Another Dutch. It reminds me of my basic skills classes.

In the afternoon we were in the pool. A lot of fun.

The best part was finishing around sun set.

Diver Down

It's interesting being in a classroom with twenty-something Europeans and other non Americans. They are all a selfie Generation. It's fun to watch the exasperation of the instructors dealing with this group. Today our classroom was outside on the deck above the restaurant overlooking the bay. This probably wasn't ideal for this group. Too many distractions.

Kate from Toronto in the way of the view.

Our instructor,Neil from England, in the Orange striped shirt, dealing with the sisters from Essex.

After the morning classroom session we had lunch on the water ( the waves were breaking under the dock we were on splashing us occasionally). However, the waiter told us they were out of Thai food. This was very random.

In the afternoon we went for our first open water dive.

It was a great experience. Saw some great fish. Coral.

Our second dive wasn't as good. The visibility decreased significantly. Both dives were at about 12 meters.

Tomorrow we go deeper to 18 meters.

Prior to 1943, this island was uninhabited except by fisherman shacks. Then it was a prison for a couple years. Since then it's been growing.

Physically it's absolutely stunning. Palm tree jungles on the hills. House size weathered round boulders. Blue green sandy bottom warm water.

Koh Tao

Prior to 1943, this island was uninhabited except by fisherman shacks. Then it was a prison for a couple years. Since then it's been growing.

Physically it's absolutely stunning. Palm tree jungles on the hills. House size weathered round boulders. Blue green sandy bottom warm water.

There's a lot to like here. And some not to like.

Last night eight of us from the dive class went to dinner off the beaten tourist path to a legit Thai place. I had spicy noodles that I'm still paying for. After, we went to Lotus, a club on the beach. Fire dancers were the entertainment, a common diversion here.

By ten I was ready for bed as we had a 7:30 boat for diving the next day.

Our morning dives, both around 18 meters were brilliant. Saw a ton of fish. Nemo. Angel fish. It was definitely easier.

It feels good to accomplish something, but I am ready to just sit back with my kindle and relax.

Down Time (1/9/15)

Taking a much needed rest day. Moved hotels. A downgrade but much cheaper. But still on the water and with a pool and AC.

There are great little restaurants on/over the water. Meals are cheap. Beer is cold.

This afternoon I'll go for a $10 massage. Tomorrow I might rent a scooter and explore the island. Sunday I might dive again.

This was the view from my room of the pool and countryside. My new view is no where as nice.

Island Tour

Rented a scooter for $6/day. Travelled to the south end of the island.

Then took another road toward Shark Island.

Finally I ended up at Top View bar which overlooks Sairee beach where all the action is.

Dive 5 & 6 (1/10/15)

(A sideways Palm tree).

Well, now I've got another sport under my belt but not sure how in depth I'll take it. It's cheap here but back home it's another story. I'll see if I can do it in Costa Rica in June.

The dives are short. 40 minutes. It's pretty much like a short walk around some rocks. But the rocks are coral and there's a ton of life to spend time looking at. And, unlike a walk, you have to make sure you have enough air to breathe. An newlywed Australian couple who live in Wollongong of all places (where I studied abroad) had a fancy camera and I gave him my card so I hope I can show some photos. It's rather remarkable but I think snorkeling in Mexico south of Cancun was still better in terms of aquatic life.

This morning before the dive I watched the Pats game and texted my family. It was a fun exchange and cemented the fact that it's a small world.

I'm about to have lunch, rice noodles, vegetables, pineapple, cashew, and pork.

$3. Right on the water. This afternoon I take a water taxi to an island to do some snorkeling and relaxing. It looked pretty nice from the boat.

Nangyuan Island (1/11/15)

Took a ferry to Nangyuan Island. The water was crystal clear, the views amazing. The problem was its a tiny island and it was packed like Coney Island in the twenties. There wasn't much to do there but swim, snorkel, drink, and sleep. The rain started at 3:30 so I caught an early boat back.

The guy who brought us back had been fishing and we saw his dinner.

At the hotel they reran the Pats game so I got to watch the fourth quarter even though I knew the outcome.

Last night in Koh Tao so I'm splurging on a steak dinner at Barracuda one of the nicer places in town. The rib eye is $15. It's from New Zealand.

My boat is at 9:30. Then I've a bus ride then a flight. I'm to arrive in Bangkok around 6pm. My flight home leaves the 13th at 7pm.

Boat, Boat, Bus, Plane, Bus, Skytrain Type of Day

Another hell day of travel. To make it worse it poured rain all night and into this morning. I bought a $3 poncho for me and a $2 one for my bag.

Getting on the ferry was a feat unto itself. Two windows for five hundred plus people without any sense of organization or line. Of course I stood in the wrong line.

The first leg was rough. The conditions were choppy and the crew started handing out sickness bags as soon as we embarked. To increase the pain I chose a seat under a leaking AC unit so I endured a Chinese water torture for an hour and half.

Now I'm waiting for another boat to take me to a bus which will take me to the airport.

The seas were so rough we had to disembark at a different location. Which caused some quick maneuvering on the workers part.

They had to McGyver a makeshift gangplank. I've got an hour flight to Bangkok then somehow figure out how to get to my hotel. I might splurge and take a taxi.

The rest of the trip was uneventful. I did get to ride next to the driver of the bus from the ferry to the airport. There was one scene when we must have driven through a Muslim village as all the women wore hajib(?), the men the small round hats and unique beards. Anyway a group of young girls in the back of a pickup truck noticed me sitting next to the driver and laughed, a strange sight to them I guess. They erupted when I waved to them. I wish I took out my camera for that shot.

I was torn between taking a cab from the airport or using the public transport system. It took a little longer and was crowded but it saved me $15-20.

But I'm back in familiar territory. It's nice to return to a place you know. Tomorrow I will look for a jacket and maybe a massage before my long journey home.

Final Day in Thailand

Here's how to start the day. Noodle soup with chicken feet and blood sausage. Didn't know I was ordering it. It also had a drumstick. Not much to eat on the feet. Texture was strange. Blood sausage texture throws me. Unlike Bourdaine, I'm not a fan. But the broth was awesome. I like eating soup for breakfast.

The night before after I checked in and showered I ate dinner at a great little place not far from the hotel. Marketed to gringos, it was clean and well lit (or lighted, as Hemingway wrote). They make their own wide rice noodles which are delicious. After I went to BKK Bistro and spoke with Mack the owner, former Seattlite but living in Bangkok the first day 15 years with his Thai wife. He owned a few business mostly catering to tourists (guest houses, spas). He was talkative but scattered, helpful with local tips. At the end of the night walking a block to my hotel, the turkey was once again roaming the street, puffing out his chest and feathers when anyone got close. It's owner caught my eye after it puffed at me while I took its photo.

I slept in till seven anyway. My goal was to get a jacket so I was directed via the Sky Train to platinum. Picture an outdoor market but verticle and without the plastic tarps. 6 floors and only a half of one was geared toward men. These Thai women have some serious retail therapy addictions. I didn't see anything I liked so I went to the mall, with almost all stores recognizable. One sport store had some jackets on sale so I bought one for my Beijing adventure. It's supposed to sunny with highs around 45 and lows 23. Since my car is picking me up at 6:30am, I'll be feeling the low.

My last Thai meal was back at Natalie's for the homemade rice noodles. They are so good. This was with egg and vegetables and chicken.

Now I'm on the plane to Beijing. I caught the sunset before I boarded.

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